FOTD: Luminous

I’ve been drowning in foundation lately (a favorites post is coming), and recently acquired Guerlain’s Parure de Lumiere. The formula is supposed to be super light (it’s not) with sheer luminous coverage (no). It’s not completely weightless, but you can feel it going on, and adherence is an issue before it sets (about 30 seconds). But the finish is stunning. It’s actually luminous without going shiny or greasy.

I used these three in order: By Terry CC-Lumi in Apricot Glow (primer), Guerlain Parure de Lumiere in Dore 23 (foundation), and By Terry Impearlious Voile de Perle (finishing img_7622powder). I was so worried about looking like a disco ball, but that didn’t happen at all. Instead I ended up with this ‘backlit’ sort of finish, that really worked. The combo is literally made for camera because it really just makes you seem like you’re glowing in all the right places. As long as you use a light touch (thin layers people! thin layers) you can really end up with a fantastic finish.

I used Kiko Soft Touch Blush in 100 just under the apples of my cheeks for a bit of a ‘bronze’ contour. Eyes are Tom Ford Cognac Sable: Gold all over the lids, Medium Brown just across the lashline, and the darkest brown (damp brush) as a diffused winged eyeliner. Brows are Anastasia Brow Definer (dark brown) and mascara is Armani Black Ecstasy. Lips are Marc Jacobs J’adore (STILL my favorite).

So far, so good on this foundation. Not sure it’ll make my top picks for 2016 because I’m hinky on that initial bind. We’ll see how it wears.

Ciao for now!

 

 

FOTD: Pat McGrath Metalmorphosis (Copper)

There is an ENTIRE POST dedicated to my thoughts on the newest offering from Pat McGrath, but photobucket is showing IT’S WHOLE ENTIRE ASS and not working right now… and I’m mostly mad that I’m surprised. That service is so wack. There is always something wrong with the site. Always. I need get out of the stone ages and find something better.

Anyway, I did an FOTD with the copper cream, pigment and black marker liner and came out with this:

IT WAS REALLY HARD TO TAKE A BAD PICTURE. I think that gives you my initial thoughts about this offering. This is her best yet. I ended up with the Everything Kit, which is the absolute best value.

Face is Charlotte Tilbury Magic Foundation in #9, and Tilbury Pressed Powder in #2 (Medium). Blush is Kiko 100. Eyes are Copper cream topped with Copper pigment. I used the Lunasol Glossy Eyes palette in Beige (darkest brown in the crease and under waterline, and pale gold in the lid corners). Lips are a mix of OFRA Brooklyn and Havana Nights, with the Copper cream patted on top.

FOTD: Golden

I decided to end the week on a sparkling high note, with that trifling ass Natasha Denona Star Palette. The more I mess with it the more I want her to issue apologies and refunds. These crystal things are just unacceptable.

In order to make this horseshit work, you HAVE TO APPLY THE GLITTER FIRST. So I used an old eyeshadow primer and slapped Polaris onto my eyelids with fingers before it set. Then I dusted off the excess because wouldn’t you know that not all of it adhered to the primer. SMH

Then I did the rest of my eyes with the deepest brown in the crease, then buffed out the top with the peach color. No, I’m not putting the color names down because there’s no point. You can use any matte dark brown and any matte warm peach and get the exact same result. I finished with Tom Ford’s Eye Defining Pen (which is simply magic) and Armani Mascara (you already know)

Lips are a combination of Chanel’s Nude Liner (of which I have worn TWO down to the nub, and am now on a third), and Bite’s Gold Creme Lip Gloss (totally worth getting).

I’m trying to really be as compassionate toward this palette as our government keeps asking us to be toward people who brazenly spray swastikas on federal property and openly hurl racist and sexist slurs (oh they got ONE TIME TO TRY ME. ONE.) in the wake of this election. But the struggle is real y’all. I’m not sure what the point of this palette is beyond an obvious money grab. She should have spent more time on these formulas to make them worth the asking price. With time, I’m sure that this palette could have been great. Even Samantha (Pixiwoo) couldn’t fix her lips to recommend it. She gave the price, and said that maybe it’s not a good idea for a professional to try and use it ’cause the shadows are easily compromised. It was polite, but she wasn’t up there hocking it like it’s the best thing ever either, and I truly respect that.

FOTD: Sheer Skin/Red Lips

Normally, when I do a red lip I go all full with the foundation because Red Lips = Glamour right? Wrong. Since the makeup community upgraded all those antiquated rules, it stands to reason that I need to do the same. I went nearly bare in the skin department, using just By Terry CC Cream and Charlotte Tilbury Powder in Medium. The good thing about that (damn) powder is that it has rose wax in it so it hydrates more than it dries. You’d think this would be counter-intuitive for my skin, but since balancing it out (it was oily because it was unbalanced) it just sets whatever liquid I have under it with the lightest of dustings.

I wanted to stay soft with the rest of the makeup as well, so I used the light and medium contour colors from the Viseart Contour + Highlight palette as lid and crease colors. Then Urban Decay Zero pushed into the lashline with a brush, and Armani mascara to finish.

Cheeks are Estee Lauder + Victoria Beckham Bronzer.

The lips are Chanel Lip Ink in #154 (Experimente) with a clear gloss on top. Mostly this is a matte formula, but in this case I patted it on with fingers to stain, then popped MAC clear gloss on top. It had the nerve to hold well despite the oily formula. These are definitely making my Best of 2016 list for liquid lipsticks. Chanel really outdid themselves, and I appreciate that they were patient and developed a formula that would really stand out.

Estee Lauder + Victoria Beckham: The First

WOW.

So my first impression of this collection is LOVE. Pure unadulterated love. Okay, let me clarify. I don’t like everything (I think those eye tints are a complete waste of space and the eye pencil is garbage), but most of it is fabulous. The colors are not exceptional, but the formulas are undeniably fantastic. And the packaging just seals it. If you think it reminds you of Tom Ford, you’re right. Estee Lauder owns Tom Ford Beauty, so similarities are warranted. But this is so much better, in my opinion. The reason why is the insides. The Tom Ford Night Blooming Powders (which is where the similar packaging happens) are good, but not fantastic. The highlighter is a gold highlighter. Period. And the blush is a source of frustration for anyone… including the palest of them all… trying to get it to show up on their skin. Not so for this collection. EVERYTHING shows up. The colors are dense and gorgeous, and I am here for (mostly) all of it.

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This is what showed up first. I got this collection in pieces from different places. Estee Lauder began to sell out the day after it released, and certain stores only got certain items. So these arrived from Selfridges (which is crazy because the US based stores haven’t even shipped yet!), and I couldn’t wait for the rest to arrive to start this review. So I’ll do it in pieces. I also ordered the lipstick, lip pencil, and gloss. When those get here, I’ll post them as well.

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See what I mean about density? The bronzer shows up on my skin, and is dark enough to cheat as a contour. The highlighter is DENSE. As you can see, it’s opaque and unapologetic. You have to really sheer it out to use it, so a light touch is recommended. You can easily pack it onto your eyes as a shadow, and it’ll hold with no issue. I also got the eye shadow in Bitter Clove, which looks like a lighter (with multi-color sparkles) version of Gucci’s Cocoa, which I love. My favorite is the eye ink in Black Myrrh. I know… it’s just a black shadow. But when I tell you that it’s so dense that it works gorgeously as an eyeliner with no fallout (not that I could see and I packed it with abandon)… OMG. Love. I want a backup. That’s so rude. But I do.

I happily dug into these items for an FOTD:

Bronzer as contour, highlight as  highlight, Bitter Clove on the lids and Black Myrrh everywhere else on the eyes. I really love this stuff.

Because my lip stuff hasn’t gotten here yet, I used Charlotte Tilbury’s Very Victoria with a clear gloss on top.

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Doing my very best Victoria Beckham impression

Love this collection. It’s well done, beautifully packaged, and classically impressive. It’s the difference between a pair of camouflage Louboutin booties and a classic Balmain blazer. You can tell that a lot of thought went into most of the collection (I’m not a fan of the palette because I feel like it does color for color’s sake, and I feel like the double ended eye pencil  was kind of phoned in), and Beckham has every reason to be proud of it.

FOTD: Lions & Chimps

I pulled some of the more ‘charitable’ new releases from Chantecaille and Kat Von D to put this together. You’ve already seen the Lion’s palette. The Kat Von D Liquid Lipstick in Project Chimps is an orange-based red that I find actually wears more comfortably than fullsizerender143her regular colors. I struggle with Lolita II in terms of dryness and flakiness. But this set in about 30 seconds and wore comfortably for hours. It’s described as a ‘warm brick red’ but it’s not … at least not on me. It definitely translates much lighter than brick and is more orange than ‘warm’… even though orange is a warm color. Am I making any sense? Maybe not.

Anyway, to the makeup! The base is a combination of By Terry’s Lumiere Foundation in #8 (which I don’t think they make anymore) and Koh Gen Do’s Aqua foundation in Ochre. Ochre is super yellow, and By Terry pulls a little pink. So I combined the two to neutralize them. Powder is Charlotte Tilbury pressed in #2 (which has quickly become my jam, much to the chagrin of my wallet). Blush isn’t really that at all… it’s Highlight The Truth (which says Taraji Glow on the back) from the MAC Taraji P. Henson collection. It’s such a strong peachy gold that I can easily wear it as a blush. It would only be a highlighter on much darker skin, and honestly I think they did that on purpose and… KUDOS! I soooo feel like Taraji was in the background talking about: “Y’all got PLENTY for the pale girls. Y’all need to hook my pigmented beauties up!” You know she was.

Eyes are mostly the grey and rust colors from the Chantecaille . As you can see, they kind of mashed together. The grey is matte and the rust is shimmer but damn if they don’t  both look BROWN. I’m working on that. I put the tiniest bit of the highlight color near the tear duct. Y’all WHY do my brows look like that? SMH.  I need to call Jennifer… who I’m pretty sure is on vacation or something because my phone has not buzzed with an appointment reminder. Dammit.

The liner is Tom Ford Eye Definer, which so far is so very good. BUT I always think that about a new liner and that joint dries out 10 days later so I’m reserving final judgement for a while. MUFE pissed me off so damn bad… started skipping just weeks after I bought it (damn felt tip liner). But this one has a brush and it’s making a difference. Takes a little more control… which is funny for me because I’ve clearly been out of practice from using felt tip liners and gel liners/brushes. But it’s holding up well for the moment.

You already know what the mascara is. 😉

The lips were applied two different ways: center from the wand and edges with a brush. This liquid lipstick isn’t super thin, but it’s just enough to make me a little nervous so I did a little precision work.

Soooo I got my face shaved…

Yep!

I literally went under the knife and let Jennifer (whom I trust completely with my skin) perform Dermaplane. Y’all WHY is it so therapeutic? You’d think that having a damn scalpel scraped across my face would cause all kinds of stress. NOPE. It felt so good, and I could feel her touching my new skin and I swear it felt like she was stroking silk. Just amazing.

The thing is, I didn’t know what she was talking about when she first suggested it. I’d seen a ton of videos and crap about people shaving their faces but you know YouTube is RATCHET because these mofos were holding up Lady Gillette Razors talking about shaving their faces. There was one video by Lisa Eldridge and another by a couple of women that I have blocked out because it was kinda gushy and annoying, but I swear I didn’t connect the two until Jennifer explained why it would be a crap idea for me to go into heat or humidity after she was done. She’s like “Honey I’m taking a scalpel to your face.” And that’s when I IMG_3589got super excited because I had been meaning to ask her about it, only for the life of me I couldn’t remember what the name of the treatment was.

Dermaplane.

Now I know.

So I’m laying there and she’s just scraping away and I’m thinking this would be a fantastic alternative to peels because it feels so damn good and the results are instant. Once the shedding starts on a peel, I have to wait about a week for everything to fall away and be fabulous. But as soon as I left the office, I was looking in the rear view mirror like YAAAAASSSSS. 😉 My cheeks were a little red from the stimulation but damn if my skin didn’t look brand new! Ignore my chapped ass lips. I dealt with them as soon as I looked atIMG_3590 the picture like EWWW. And I couldn’t take another one ’cause the light turned green! #lagirlproblems I am so happy with the results.

No sooner had I parked my car, I tested out my new skin with the ‘barest’ of bare makeup. I matted down my new skin with Innissfree No Sebum powder, which has no color. I put NARS Orgasm on my cheeks, the lightest dusting of dark brown shadow at my lashline and mascara, and that lip tint stuff from Glossier in Cake.

I posted the picture on Instagram and one of my students was like… “Ummm I want some skin love!” So I’m gonna set her up with Jennifer because y’all that woman is everything. I’ve already referred two people who are seeing her regularly. She works with you and your products, which is huge for me because I MAKE PRODUCTS. And we agree that products and regimens are like food and diet. The products themselves aren’t evil. A regimen doesn’t work all the time. You pivot and adjust based on your skin’s needs at the time. Because skin adapts (mine does in about a week or two), it’s important to keep the routine fresh. There are days when I just cleanse with water (I KNOW! If you’d told me that 3 years ago I would have laughed in your face) because that’s all my skin needs. There are days when Sunday Riley’s JUNO is the only thing my skin wants, and there are days when it gets angry and congested because of the exact same product. My sleep patterns, diet, stress, and general environment have so much to do with my skin, which wants to be kinda disrespectful from time to time. I’ve learned so much patience and observation in the quest to keep it balanced and blemish free.

Later I did a bit more with coverage to see what happened. That’s Missha Super Light Oil Foundation in w23, mixed with Cover FX Enhacer in Candlelight (because it’s a bit too light and Candlelight is a bit too dark) and 3 drops of the Calming Oil. Eyes are the Chanel Autumn Palette from last year… ? Peach on the inner lid, brown on the outer. Lash line is Urban Decay Zero, smudged out with a liner brush. Waterline is Chanel Or Rose. Cheeks are Kiko Blush in 100 (still LOVE) and lips are a combo of Black Moon Liquid Lipstick in Harvest (which is what OFRA Miami Fever should have been), and Lipstick Queen gloss in Avarice. Maybe I should have blotted ’cause my lips are doing the most.

Anyway, I’m HAPPY. Like really happy with the Dermaplane results. And no, I haven’t forgotten about the skin care post. It’s still coming (photographing pictures is taking a sec because I don’t wanna use stock images).

❤ ❤ ❤